Catch-22

Day 45
Wed Aug 31
Start: Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
End: Niamey, Niger

The bus left at seven in the morning. I didn't have a visa, either but was told not to worry about it. We arrived at the border at around 2pm and the police officer told me I had to pay 20,000 Francs (~$40) for the visa. I knew that was the correct price but didn't know if he was doing it for himself or if it was the actual visa price. He left the room and came back with actual visa stickers, which he filled out and put on my passport and stamped it. He then asked for my 20,000 francs. Ok, that's a deal.

For the first time since arriving in Africa I crossed a time zone. The one hour time it took to cross the border just took two, it was now four o'clock with out knowing it.

Entering Niamey is one of the best sites upon entering a capital, of those that I have seen. Green fields surround you, a lush marsh wetland, and then your on a bridge crossing the Niger River entering the city - still full of trees such that individual streets are hidden ahead.

At the Peace Corps Office there was some confusion. I arrived after hours and wasn't allowed inside the office. The guard called the Safety and Security Officer who told me I wasn't allowed in until the next morning. No problem. I waited outside for a few minutes until some volunteers exited and they showed me where the hostel was.

Another problem: The guard had radioed ahead to the guard at the hostel saying I wasn't allowed in. I had an e-mail I received from the Safety and Security Officer a few months back saying I could stay at the hostel, but apparantly the rules had been changed; very recently I was told - yesterday.

I wasn't allowed inside the hostel to call the officer and wasn't allowed inside the office to use the computer to show him the email that I was allowed inside the hostel. I can't get into the office after hours without his permission, and can't get a hold of him without calling him. That I can't do since I'm not allowed inside the hostel. Even the volunteers were confused and really didn't understand what was going on.

I left the bag by the gates and went out to eat with the volunteers. Ten of us went to a Japenese restaurant where the sake (sah-ki) flowed freely from the owner and we had our own private room with karaoke machine. In order to leave my bag at the hostel I had to promise the guard I wouldn't sleep there that night. I didn't arrive back to the hostel til around a quarter to midnight, with some of the others staying behind for more drinks and fun.

The volunteers I came back were allowed in. I brought one of the guard chairs over, sat down, and starting reading under the guard light.

"You no find hotel?"
"No."
"You no sleep?"
"No. I read. " [I was being stubborn]

He went inside and came back. "Ok, I called the Officer. You can stay the night, but meet him tomorrow morning at the office."

At 12:30, as I'm heading to bed the Officer stopped by the hostel. He wanted to see my passports, IDs, and to clarify the situation. I showed him all of the IDs and explained the e-mail to him, which he remembered.

Result: I have a friendly, safe, and cheap place to stay. I'm allowed to stay at the hostel.